Climbing back out of the water was another matter – Em cut her foot on a rusty drum, and I thought I’d be stuck trying to pull myself up forever! – but it was so worth it for the fun of swimming.

We had a nice lunch with all the fam under the house, then went for a walk our to the Point, collecting shells and comparing tatt’s and telling stories (an unbelievable one about what the youngest sister gets away with when she’s angry – I should be forever glad Em’s never had an axe handy when she’s mad at me!!). Em got to see someone climb a coconut, and drink the kulau, freshly husked, straight from the shell. It was a shame when the day was over and we had to drive back – we were all sorry to go. Em couldn’t stop saying what a great day she’d had, and I was so glad she’d been able to be there for it.

But the fun wasn’t over yet – when we got back home, we saw at once that Em’s wish had come true and Gabrielle was no longer a pregnant pussycat – there was a bundle of 5 little kittens waiting for us on the verandah!

Needless-to-say there was much cosseting and fussing over them for the remainder of her stay here, and she even chose a favourite – a little black one with a ginger patch over one eye. Very cute.

Monday was a day of lasts – although it started with a trip to the doctor and a tetanus shot for Em after that rusty cut to the foot. We went back to Tabari Place for a final craft search, then to PNG Art for Em’s beautiful wooden bowl, then Ela Beach with Pia for a goodbye lunch – Mussels el Moresby – yummo. A final shopping run after a brief stop at the jewelry store for a PNG charm (man climbing coconut – appropriate) and then a well-earned rest at home before wandering down to see Pia’s new place for next year, and a look at a real-live baby-in-bilum at Mrs Steven’s place. A surprise visit by Fr Lawrence and Neil, which was welcome even if the reason for his being in town wasn’t so good.

Last night we had all manner of guests coming to bring gifts and say goodbye – Neil and Father Omero (though I think they came to watch SBS Sports as much as to say their farewells!), Josepha and her family with a bilum and some beautiful engravings, Mrs Hape and the girls with a Madang bilum, and Mrs Pilon with a woolen highlands bilum. It was the most visitors we’ve had in one night! Then Dorothy and Vanessa got themselves settled with the little girls in front a movie while they began the long task of braiding Em’s hair so she could go home with PNG plaits…

It was so good having my small sister here as long as she was, and there were tears a-plenty saying goodbye – but it won’t be long now til I’ll be back there. And it was nice to have a reminder of all the good stuff I’ll be going back to, at a time when mostly all I can see is how hard it’ll be to leave this place behind…